10,000 PSI Project

This is a bit of an odd project. It starts as many odd projects start, a request form my dad. 😂 He wanted a faster way to chop up copper pipe. See, we do HVAC and have amassed some piles of copper pipes. And copper scrap is priced higher if the copper has no solder joints. Well, our copper has solder joints.

In the past, we used a bandsaw, but this process takes a lot of time and is quite messy. After a bit of googling, I found a large, hydraulic wire cutter. Perfect, well, mostly. The only issues is it utilizes a 10,000 PSi hydraulic source.

Sourcing the pump was of no issue. We found the largest one we could on eBay and purchased it. The problem was actuation. These pumps are designed for for simple and slow actuation. Utilizing a simple manual valve. Good for the odd hole punch or pipe bender. Not so good for rapid, repetitive actuation.

What we need is an electric valve. Something that can open and close our wire cutter relatively fast. They make them, but at $2,000 new, the price is quite inhibiting. Well, ebay once again to the rescue. A NEW valve for a steal of a price. $300 Who could refuse?

This enerpac valve was perfect in every way but the connection ports. There ment for a enerpac pump. Not the Greenlee pump we have. But that is no problem for a man with a mill and no fear of hydraulic blood poisoning from an oil injection injury. 😎

The vow that will forever bond this pump and valve will be a subplate. This sublate will bolt to the valve as the valve is meant to be bolted onto the pump. The suplate will be drilled and taped to accommodate 1/4″ NPTF pipe thread. This is to connect the hoses coming to and from the pump to the valve.

The valve came with a seal, but little in the way directions. I thought the seal was good for 10k PSI.

It wasn’t.😬😬😥

But not to worry! I had thought of this scenario as that seal looked a bit odd. O’Rings! I just need to machine a recess into the subplate to hold the O’Rings in place. After doing so, the subplate held pressure beautifly. But to what will hold this magnificent body of redneck work.

A Milwaukee packout case. This is not because of some weird aspiration to be sponsored by MIlwaukee. Mobility will be important for this apparatus. Added storage will be handy. And the cost of a packout case is about equal to anything else I could do, so why not.

The valve sits in a 3d printed saddle. The saddle is held to the packout case by 1/4-20 machine screws secured to the print via melt in nuts. The valve is held to the saddle via a revolutionary method. ZIP TIES!

Supply and return are in the back of the case. The holes where a little messy, so I 3D printed some escutcheons to hide my blunders.

Slide to see the difference. 😎

Hydraulic tool port is in the front. To hold the quick connector, I machined a simple panel mount fitting.

We also have the pump switch and remote connector in the front. The switch selects from pump on by remote, pump off, and pump on steady. The remote connector facilitates a foot pedal to be plugged in in order to operate the hydraulic flow. This connector will also be used for the more advance remote that will be built in the future. Hopefully. If i ever get to it.

Electrical components (a relay 🤓) are mounted to a din rail secured to the lid. Yup, were building in three dimensions now. 😎

The valve box is mounted to the pump box via Milwaukee’s packout wall/floor mount. Oh yea, the pump is mounted to a wooden box my dad made. 🙃

Everything is secured to a hand truck for easy mobility. Well, relatively easy mobility. This thing is nearing a hundred pounds.

The wire cutter, foot switch, and hose are concealed within the other packout cases on top of the pump. All in all, it works out rather well.

The mill’s new brain.

Yea, it’s not working. Locked up on bios. And I had a feeling something like this was going to happen. I don’t know why. It felt weird. The original power supplies 12v rail was at 9v. So maybe that just gave me an uneasy feeling. Or, I just have a 6th sense when it comes to computers. 🤣

Give it to me strait doc, what are the options?

Well, we’ve got two options. Repair or replace. I could repair the computer by swapping out the motherboard, memery, and CPU. Or I could replace the whole control system. Repairing is easier. A lot less work to swap things out then to gut and rebuild.

However, I have basically replaced all my dc drives with ac servo motors. The ac servos have the capability to be controlled more precisely, if the control syestem was upgraded. I also have WAY more experience with modern computers and hardware then the older hardware found in this machine. I mean, I think the computer was considered old tech when it was installed. And I was 5 when it was installed. 😂

If it weren’t obvious, I’m replacing. 😁

With a Centroid oak board. Wait, not that oak board.

That’s better. This is a two part syestem. You have a windows computer that connects to the Oak controller. And then you have the Oak board itself. From what I can tell, the windows computer largely operates as an HMI (human machine interface). The computer tells the Oak controller what to do, but it is the controller itself that performs the operations. Which is good since a windows computer isn’t really the right tool to perform the precise timing that would be required to operate cnc motors.

So, no all that is left is to gut the entire control syestem and replace it. Along with a TON of wire. 😫😫🤣

Jeep plow is dead, long live tractor plow!

Don’t worry everyone in PA. We bought a new plow so we should have low amounts of snow next winter…. unless…. oh no. What if we get so much snow that the plow can’t push it….. this may backfire. 😐😂🤣

Yup, we’re retiring the plow jeep plow. It wasn’t bad, but it wasn’t great. 😁 This 10ft plow was cheap and I think the tractor will do a much better job. Also, the tracture uses diesel which we have plenty of, on hand. The jeep uses gass, so I need to go to the gas station to fill it up every time before a storm. You use a lot of fuel pushing snow about. 
I’m hoping this will be a nice summer time project. But, knowing myself, it will be a late fall, early winter project that I will need to be frantically complete. More than likely, complete after a large snowfall, then have absolutely no snow for the rest of the winter. LOL 🤣

VM-16 AC Servo Upgrade update 2- One Step forward, Two steps back.

Well, it lives! And after much trouble too. First, the servo would not stop going. No matter what I did with the configuration. I finally found out that the computer was trying to move the motor, but had the direction backwards. I did think of this and tried to reverse rotation within the drive configuration. But that didn’t have any effect. To make matters worse, the computer would leave the analog signal at 10 volts when it went into emergency stop. The fix was simple, but a bit mind boggling. I had to reverse the polarity of the signal. The software should have sufficed, but this is what it took.

Finally, the X axis homed. But that’s all it would do. It wouldn’t jog, or execute gcode. It took many days of banging my head against a wall till I finally gave Bob McManus a call at electromechtechservices.com After talking over a few things, we found out that the feed rate was at 0. The connection to the feed rate switch was unplugged. Hey man, stop laughing. I’m new to cnc. 😳🤣

Well, it moves, it zigs, one may even say it zags, and it can make a tool change. Let’s calibrate and make some chips. Right?! Well, no. 😥

Z axis limit switches are failing. Given the crappy wiring job at factory, Y is probably right behind it. Y belt is also shot. And the pulleys have seen better days. On top of that, this thing is messy inside. It needs to be properly cleaned out and lubricated before use. The Y motor needs to be pulled to replace the belt, and to cleanout underneath the motor. I already have the driver for the Y axis. I might as well just buy another motor and replace the Y servo as well.

Mmmm, crunchy.

CNC power Distribution Block

The Milltronics cnc mill needs a power modification. The old X axis DC motor used 120 volt single phase from a transformer in the mill. The new AC servo motor needs 208V 3 phase. Subsequently, I will need to supply the same power to the Y and Z axes when I replace those motors.

Are fuses necessary here since we’re staying inside the equipment box? I don’t think so, but there not a bad idea since we will be using lighter gauge wire then the 30 amp fuse would request. Not to mention, if a servo drive fails catastrophically. Better it blow up at 7 amps then at 30 amps. 😁 But these fuse block holders made by Phoenix Contact offer another benefit. You can bond them together. Meaning one wire can supply power to multiple fuses. It turns a fuse block into a distribution block.

And yet, I still ran jumper wires. But hay, not as many. 😁 The block can handle 10 amps. So how many can a block of fuse holders handle with one feed? I couldn’t find that answer, but I am guessing 10 amps. Though, considering the block could handle 8 gauge wires, plus two 14 gauge wires without an issue…. well, I have to wonder.

Some edge molding protects the wires. Only cause the edge molding was literally in front of me as I was building this. 😂

But where shall such a contraption be placed in such a confined cabinet! Well, removing the old X axis driver card opened up a nice location. It’s not perfect, but it’s a work in progress. I will be replacing a lot of the crap in this compartment because, well, it’s me. It’s what I do. 😎 So this location may change. Then again, it may not. I’m dodgy like that. 😂🤣

But why so many fuses? Well, It’s 3 phase, so we need to fuse each leg, which comes out to 3 blocks. These blocks separated by some grounding terminals. Each block contains 6 fuses. I need 4 fuses for axes, I need one single phase for fans, and one, ok fine. I got a bunch of these fuse blocks cheap on eBay and I fit as many as I could . I would have gone to 7 if I could. 😅

New cnc mill

I bought a CNC mill! It’s a Milltronics VM16 A. And it’s broken. No, no, I knew about when I got it. The X axis wouldn’t home and it started to drift. I scoped it out… literary,😁 and the encoder is shot. I suspect the led died. So I’m replacing the dc servo with an ac servo.

The post bridge post

It’s a joist bridge. You know, a bridge over a joist. 😎 Or would it be a post bridge, a bridge for a post…. Either way, we’re working on repairing part of the floor in the barn. Amongst many issues, the roof leaks. And has probably been leaking for the last 20-40 years. It’s on our todo list. 😁 But, the perpetual leaking has rotted out this joist, on which a timber rests. This timber(post) holds up the roof, basically. With there being a beam directly under this location of the joist, the solution was simple. Weld up a joist bridge. 😁 1″ plate steel for the top with 2x4x1/4″ rectangle tube for the legs. It outa hold it for a while. 🙃